WI went home from Antarctica, I faced an unusual problem. I don’t know how to describe it to anyone. This is a problem, especially since my livelihood largely depends on my ability to describe content. I spent a lot of time wondering why it was so hard and I think it’s a combination of things. 1) So far; 2) it’s weird; and 3) it makes me extremely nervous.
I realize that these also make recommending a holiday destination difficult. Do you really want to go somewhere that almost kills you, that is strange, uncomfortable, and possibly even dangerous, and that will continue to wake you up in the night for months afterward? ? Yes, yes, you do. And here’s why.
Really far
Antarctica is the furthest you can get from civilization while still on planet Earth. My ride wasn’t as bad as that of Ernest Shackleton, who spent nearly 15 months frozen, made two emergency boat trips (one of which was over 1500 km long) and climbed a mountain range to Save your people, all without ever touching the continent of Antarctica. But it involves two equator, three continents, four flights, five airports and over 40 hours of flight and transit time. On my last leg (10 hour overnight flight), I got sick four times. It’s hideous beyond imagination and my only advice is: don’t do it. There are direct flights from Australia to South America: use them, use them, use them.
No, despite my expectations, dying of excruciating pain on the plane, I boarded the plane Intrepid Travel’s Antarctic cruise ship in Ushuaia, at the southern tip of Argentina. The Ocean Endeavor isn’t the most luxurious ship carrying tourists across the 60th parallel south, but it is one of the most environmentally conscious. Intrepid is an Australian-founded travel agency known for its adventure and social capital credentials. It offsets the full carbon footprint of trips to Antarctica; donated $150,000 to Antarctic whale research through the Intrepid Foundation; and provides free berths for scientists studying the flora, fauna and ecology of the area, who speak to paying passengers. (I was also a guest on Intrepid.)
Most of the wildlife shows no fear of visitors. Credit: Courtesy of Intrepid
It takes around 48 hours to cross the Drake Passage from South America to the Antarctic Peninsula, and it could be one of the most extreme sea journeys in the world. Earlier this season, a passenger (with another company) was killed while crossing Drake when a raging wave smashed some of the ship’s windows during a storm. Antarctica itself has its dangers: the 3.5-metre leopard seal (known – though rarely – to attack Zodiac boats), seasickness (medication first!) But there’s also the possibility of a day Some morning, the captain may announce, like ours, that your ship, lurking among icebergs and glittering shores, is in uncharted waters – waters never seen before. mapped. That’s why you defied danger in the first place, right?
Strangely Wild, Strangely Wild
Antarctica has two great draw cards beyond simple seventh continent bragging rights: animals and landscapes. The scenery is just as you imagined, but much more beautiful than you expected. I would have thought we would be covered in blizzards or frozen 24/7, but during the summer tourist season the conditions can be spectacular: the sun is shining and the sea and ice and snow are brilliant. Meanwhile, the animals are spectacular regardless of the weather. They are scientifically classified as extremists, which feels true not only practically but also emotionally. All penguins can drink saline, which absorbs the salt into a gland near the eye and lets it drain out of the nose. Seals are the most southerly mammals on earth (Weddell seals); can spend two hours underwater in one dive (elephant seal); and can even sleep underwater.
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The two largest animals on earth – the Antarctic blue whale, the size of a 737 jet, and the fin whale, just a little smaller – both live in Antarctic waters, as do fishes. Humpback whales and spearhead whales are much more common but no less magnificent. As for seabirds, there’s everything from the wandering albatross (with a wingspan of 3.5 meters, the world’s largest) to the arctic tern (only 35 cm long but has a migratory distance of 30,000 km). year) – your choice.
And the strange thing about all these wild animals is that they are so easy to see. Intrepid organizes two Zodiac excursions a day for everyone on board, weather permitting – plus optional kayaking trips and photography courses – during which you wear thousands of layers , board small inflatable boats and cruise the bay or land on shore. You may find yourself visiting penguin shelters or seal colonies, old huts, or even the post office in Antarctica where you can send a letter to your future self. hybrid, say how lucky you are to be in Antarctica.
During the trip, I saw only one animal – a small seal with big eyes under furrowed eyebrows – trying to avoid us. Everyone else just kept doing their job: flapping their wings or swimming or – very often – sleeping. Sometimes they look indignant (cue, penguin) but never fear. The ferrets and humpbacks occasionally approach the boats, and all the seals seem to be smiling.
Worry of the world
I’m glad the animals are smiling, because in Antarctica there were times when I felt like crying out of despair. There is no escape from the dangers facing the continent: melting sea ice; mollusk mining; even the tourism industry is growing. This season, 100,000 people have visited Antarctica, 40% more than the previous biggest season, 2019-2020. Tourism here risks introducing exotic organisms into the area and inevitably increases black carbon (soot) concentrations. It also loads a large number of people into an ecologically vulnerable area. But on the other hand, companies often adhere to strict environmental protections, tightly controlled licenses, and operate with a relatively low impact. And in the case of Intrepid, the expedition staff – many of whom are scientists, ecologists, climate change consultants – are not without hope for the continent. which they impart through lectures on board.
Scientists studying the area could be fellow passengers – and talk to tourists.Credit: Courtesy of Intrepid
So, after waiting for a penguin to waddle in front of you, or watching a whale glide beneath your dinghy, you can head to the bar, buy a giant drink and listen to someone tell you something positive about the future. Like the fact that we’ve tackled major climate crises before (think of the ozone hole or acid rain); or the economic and technological barriers to preventing climate change have been overcome: what matters now is that we choose to do it. Even if there’s no iceberg in my glass (the only Antarctic dream I haven’t fulfilled), I’ll drink for it. Amanda Hooton
Excursion to the sub-Antarctic archipelago, the Antarctic peninsula
Macquarie Island is recognized by UNESCO as a breeding ground for 3.5 million seabird species.Credit: beautiful pictures
WHY: This alternative Galapagos is a lot closer to home.
EXPERIENCE: Snares, the northernmost of New Zealand’s sub-Antarctic Islands, was first named an 18th-century maritime hazard. Today, they not only justify it as an unhindered wilderness. attractive it can be animated. The fur seals and the penguins looked like they had been shot from a cannon.
On the shores, where introduced species have never reached, sea lions lazily get close enough to touch beneath the bony megaflora forests, as meter-long strips of seaweed curl and burst into the waves. while seagulls, albatrosses and falcons circled overhead. And amazingly, Snares isn’t even a point of interest on Ponant’s 15-day itinerary to New Zealand’s sub-Antarctic Islands, the highlight of which is the UNESCO-listed Macquarie Island that’s actually part of it. of Tasmania. Part of what has been described as the Galapagos of the Southern Ocean, “Macca” is a breeding ground for 3.5 million species of seabirds, most of them penguins (royal, king, gentoo, and rockhopper). ) as well as fur seals and elephants.
Even the wonders of the South Island that have long lost their soul to photography, like Milford Sound, come alive again, up close and personal.
IDEAL FOR: Those who like the road less traveled.
LIKE THIS? TRY: South Georgia Island in South Atlantic – other wildlife/wildlife destination mentioned like Galapagos and Antarctic Islands. Brook Turner
Wine tasting on Waiheke Island, New Zealand
Waiheke Island has quickly become a top wine destination. Credit: iStock
WHY: Think New Zealand wine and you probably think Marlborough and Central Otago. Waiheke Island is a newer wine region, just a 45-minute ferry ride from Auckland and small enough to do in a day.
EXPERIENCE: Waiheke Island is popular with wealthy New Zealanders as well as Americans and Europeans, many of whom have purchased the 92-square-foot island as a hedge against global catastrophe. What used to be an artsy, bohemian hangout is now filled with $3 million beachfront shacks and the population grows from less than 10,000 to more than 35,000 in the summer. Try a winter weekend at Mudbrick Vineyard and Restaurant, a popular lunch and wedding venue that also features two cottages designed for couples to rent, complete with tubs outdoor hot tub, indoor stove and views of Hauraki Bay towards Auckland. Book with locally-owned Ananda Tours, who will take you to tastings at half a dozen cellar doors across the island, from Mudbrick to Kennedy Point, Stonyridge and Casita Miro, the latter of which has great tapas to go with wine.
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IDEAL FOR: Food and vino lovers.
LIKE THIS? TRY: Learn more about olive oil – what makes it good, what makes it bad – at Rangihoua Estate, the largest olive oil producer on the island. Katrina Strickland
Cooperation with tourists. Thanks to Julietta Jameson, Jane Reddy and Anthony Dennis from the team tourists for their help on this matter.
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