Fashion

Fendi, Diesel open Milan Fashion Week with a sense of innovation


Milan’s five-day calendar is back to almost beforeCOVID-19 levels with 68 runway shows, 104 presentations and 30 events. A flurry of new designers appeared, including a variety of colors, in perhaps the most diverse Milan fashion week ever.

Among the highlights of the week: Haitian-Italian designer Stella Jean returns after a two-year hiatus; Bally launches runway in Milan with Filipino-American designer Rhuigi Villasenor; and Maximilian Davis debut as the new creative director of Salvatore Ferragamo.

Below are snapshots from Wednesday’s shows, including Fendi and Diesel.

COOL STRUCTURE AT FENDI

Fendi women’s fashion designer Kim Jones stripped down her usually chic Fendi showroom to polished concrete floors, painted steel beams and stands to showcase her next warm-weather collection.

He saved luxury for the runway look. The Spring Summer 2023 collection is a studied balance of structure, texture and color.

The satin-tipped apron creates a flowing layer over the trousers, while the perforated leather versions resemble jumpsuits over the skirt.

fendi fashion week, fendi milan A model wears a creation from Fendi’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection for women presented in Milan, Italy. (AP Photo / Antonio Calanni)

Layering is key to styling. Jones played with textures, cutting an asymmetrical chubby wool coat over a sheer jacket, both in neutrals, which saved eye-catching pops of color for the boots. Silk skirts are pleated and tied to shape, and colorfully constructed coats have deep slits and are elegantly tied at the back, like an elaborate Japanese bow. Copy.

The silhouette ranges from body-hugging ribbed knit dresses with deep slits to flowing asymmetrical silk dresses. Ribbed square-neck shirt accents the skirt with sexy deep slits on each side, or silk trousers with utility pockets with back pocket flaps.

Neutrals in sage, bronze and white reinforce the palette.

The final look emphasizes the simple elegance of Jones’ propositions: A racing midi tank tucked in white pants is softened by this season’s half apron dress – all in white smoothest.

“What was particularly exciting for me about Fendi was exploring the concept of functional utility alongside femininity __ because Fendi women are strong women with busy, fulfilling lives,” says Jones. in the program notes.

Fendi’s smallest bag is worn on a chain around the neck. The logo is subtle: knitted into the inner hem of the sweater and visible only if twisted upwards, either with a double F on the lining or embroidered as if it were an initial on the back of the sweater. Jones’ new Obi belt.

The footwear features colorful boots or slip-ons. Jones is shifting the brand away from its heritage animal hide and instead focusing on Silvia Venturini Fendi handbags, using glossy leather, canvas and cut fabrics.

DIESEL Blows Denim Books Up

In a rare open fashion week event, Diesel made space for the public in the upper floors of his runway show, set around giant inflated dolls entwined in a plump trio.

On the ground floor, models walk beneath a squatting female character, past a man lying on his stomach, his head politely turned.

Glenn Martin’s mixed men’s and women’s collection expands the meaning of denim.

He nailed the high- and low-waist debate from the start, his first glance hinting at a low silhouette that morphed into a pair of high-waisted trousers – the illusion of having both dimensions. The look was completed with a matching bra.

diesel fashion week, diesel milan A model wears a piece as part of Diesel’s Spring/Summer 2023 women’s collection presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, September 21, 2022. (AP Photo / Antonio Calanni)

To him, trousers looked sloppy and a sleeveless cardigan with ripped denim washed was tucked inside.

Denim effect is dyed into a sheer vest, worn open over Daisy Duke style shorts with matching denim heels. The male counterpart is significantly more shielded, in a hooded tank top paired with well-dressed trousers and denim boots.

The denim itself has been carefully dressed in creative washes that suggest the desert, and can be accompanied by a bright palette of orange, green, or pink dividers.

The collection has evolved into more outlandish looks, seemingly inspired by the sci-fi classic “Dune”, with its sandy colors and tattered style, as a soundtrack hinting at The call of the giant sandworm. These include layered and voluminous two-piece tops and skirts tied with cleavage belts, or a gray hoodie over a ragged skirt. New versions of jeans have large leg panels, as if to fly.

Add to the sci-fi vibe: a green-tone makeup model wears a glittering reptile mini dress.

HOLLYWOOD GLAM AT FAUSTO PUGLISI’s CAVALLI

As he nervously looked ahead to Italy’s parliamentary elections on Saturday, Cavalli’s creative director, Fausto Puglisi, drew inspiration from the glitz of Hollywood’s golden era.

“I am really scared about the new election. We’re going to take a lot of risk,” Puglisi said backstage after the show, expressing concern that a far-right party was leading in the polls.

To ease his nerves, Puglisi crafted the look from the finest Lake Como textiles, which he pleated, pleated and pleated for a diva-like impact. “I wanted the freshness, the innocence,” he said.

The first image appeared as “Ave Maria” played: an angelic white brocade midi dress with an elegant neckline – setting a restrained tone that Puglisi maintained for a few looks prior to its launch. Cavalli DNA for a higher tempo track.

Then: A strapless cocktail mini dress created from a skirt and ruched bodice, as if a pinwheel had stopped. It’s a look that’s been replicated on maxi dresses and deep slits. Cavalli’s silhouette embraces everything from confident dresses and bodysuits with diamond cuts at the bodice, to dainty gowns and silk gowns featuring antique museum prints. service.

The look is accented with a pretty pineapple, bunch of grapes, brooch and palm tree earrings. The motifs also come in prints and in one case, a beaded mini dress that evokes a pineapple down to thorny leaves at the neckline.

Puglisi said his references are “the new Hollywood Renaissance that began in the 30s and 40s. … I don’t want to be superfluous. I like to play with colors, with very classic fabrics. “

N. 21’s LOVER

“Mistress” or lover in Alessandro Dell‘Acqua’s N. 21 brand is in a hurry, wearing revealing clothes, revealing lingerie, messy hair and smudged mascara.

She, or he, wears the absolute elements: a gorgeous shirt tucked beneath a red sequin coat, carelessly buttoned up. The back of a ruched dress should not be pulled all the way. Haste is obvious.

Gorgeous dresses with 1940s silhouettes show off bright red spiked bras and panties, or drop off the shoulders. Masculine touches, such as buttoning a shirt, are said to be borrowed. One is worn with a full pleated skirt.

Twisted rhinestone necklace completes the look. The shoe was designed unnecessarily, an architecture that the show notes say makes the heel truly “superfluous”.

“The collection deals with all the moods of a person in love: from love to anger to sex to eroticism to the deepest passion. Dell’Acqua said: “The concept is very cinematic.”

Not to give up the ending, but the show ended with tattered wedding dresses made from the leftover pieces of lace.

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