Jeff Goldblum infused Milan Fashion Week with a bit of light on Sunday as he shone on the Prada runway in a dark jacket that made for a dramatic silhouette.
The latest menswear collection in a two-year-old collaboration between Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons as creative co-directors was at once elemental and glorified, introducing enhanced versions of the daily wear.
“We were thinking about meaningful fashion, meaningful items,” says Prada. “Clothes make people feel important and therefore they themselves are important, not something to throw away. ”
Italian designer Miuccia Prada, right, standing next to co-designer Raf Simoms acknowledges the accolades at the conclusion of Prada’s Fall-Winter 2022-23 men’s collection. (AP Photo / Luca Bruno)
Kyle MacLachlan and Goldblum opened and closed the show, respectively, which featured eight other actors, chosen by the designers to represent “real men, recognized characters,” raising the bar. high realism.
Both are wearing long coats. Goldblum’s features a dramatic design with fur trim, while MacLachlan’s contrasts with shimmering pale blue pants and shirt. At the end of the show, Goldblum emerged hilariously from a tunnel of purple light, as if surprised to find himself on the runway, then happily ran after.
Visitors to Fondazione Prada’s exhibition space are seated in spaced velvet theater chairs.
Outerwear and workwear form the backbone of the collection, sturdy, durable models. Statement pieces like the long coat are technically trimmed, thick along the hem and loops on the arms. Sometimes, the shoulders are accentuated and a belt is pulled tight at the waist to maximize the figure.
US actor Kyle MacLachlan wears a piece from Prada’s Fall/Winter 2022-23 men’s collection, which debuted during Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, Sunday, January 16, 2022. (AP Photo / Luca Bruno)
Designers continue to explore their ensembles, as the world begins anew, once again moving back to the office in the setting. Coronavirus pandemic, propose elegant, lightweight and almost formless camisole tops in techno silk, leather and cotton.
“They replace the traditional, historic shirt/tie/bow and bring in a new energy and reality, a more youthful attitude,” says Simons.
The designers also brought the collection to life in vibrant colors, with shades of orange, yellow and bolder. The look is completed with matching colored gloves. The statement earrings feature a robot-like shape or Prada’s new triangular logo. Bags in the shape of a futuristic triangle or a double cylindrical backpack.
With the pandemic still raging, fashion designers have come up with different, even opposing, views about the present moment: That we’re coming out of darkness and toward light – or it’s time to pull back.
Indian designer Dhruv Kapoor took the former’s point of view, in a collection that combines masculine forms with psychedelic designs with a basic message that cares about the material.
Models dress creatively in Prada’s Fall-Winter 2022-23 men’s collection. (AP Photo / Luca Bruno)
“I really wanted to promote the power of mind through this collection,” says Kapoor. “That’s what I wanted, to spread love through the brand.”
“Linear Time is an Illusion” is embroidered with a pink beam on a tailored jacket, a task that takes 20-25 days to complete. Another slogan promotes “parallel worlds,” the notion that we can be in many places at once. The thick-rimmed felt hats represent the trousers worn by yogis and are considered auspicious.
In contrast, the first runway collection by American designer Justin Gall based in Rome embodies the need to be protected, to crouch and wait for it.
The look can outfit survival teams caught in astigmatism, with a combination of puffy leather jackets, vests, and quilted pants, layered or interspersed with faux-fur elements. The hood is tightly wrapped over the dark sunglasses, and the pants alternate between heavy-duty leather with utility pockets and lightweight canvas pants.
“One of my motivations is survival. That’s what we’re trying to do now,” Gall said backstage.
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