The pre-pandemic fashion craze is back.
After a few COVIDMilan Fashion Week is back to its pre-pandemic glory: with seats crowded, streets and sidewalks packed with fashion fans wanting a glimpse of stars and influencers.
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After so much pandemic discussion about how the fashion system needs to change – i.e. slow down – very few people can resist going back to the world as they know it, no matter what it entails. how much traffic and hustle.
This week’s runway shows will close with a return to another Milan tradition: the Green Carpet Award to recognize advances in sustainability.
Here are some highlights from Thursday’s mostly womenswear previews for spring and next summer on the second day of Milan Fashion Week:
PRADA EXPLORES CRUDE SILK
Miuccia’s latest collection Prada and Raf Simons explore the space between minimalism and ornamentation, with clean shadows and transparent materials.
The collection begins with slim-fit, lightly cropped bodysuits handcrafted from poplin shirts, in industrial colors like gray and ivory. They were worn underneath boxy coats and longer opera coats, followed by a loose gown of raw silk and pretty lace detailing, reminiscent of a nightgown.
“Clothing is about simplicity, not unnecessary complexity,” says Prada. ” Politically, theoretically, aesthetically, we are drawn to these notions again and again. The idea of directness. ”
A model wears a piece as part of Prada’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection for women presented in Milan, Italy (AP Photo / Antonio Calanni)
Simple silhouette. Dresses wrapped around the body, like a towel after a shower. Transparent tissue jacket for a light feel. Innocent rhinestones decorate bags and coats, sometimes keeping part of the fabric in place.
Even with feminine touches, androgyny emphasizes the collection, especially in the Prada ensemble: overalls, slim trousers and jacket. Shoes are Mary Janes pointed toes or loafers. The bags of the season include Prada’s inverted triangle handbags and large bags in contrasting pink or lime.
” More than any other collection, this one is filled with different perspectives. There is a mirror of cinema in the collection, witnessing fragments of a larger whole,” Simons said.
MAX MARA LOST THOUGHTS
The Max Mara silhouette for the next season evokes feminine modernity, with chunky water-style trousers and skirts that subtly go from tight at the hips to a flowing cascade of movement. Mass – also evident in boxy jackets and oversized coats – is balanced by a halter top and crop top.
Creative director Ian Griffiths said he took cues from 1930s female intellectuals on the French Riviera, citing Renee Perle, photographer Jacques-Henri Lartigue’s muse and mistress, and architecture. Monk Eileen Grey. There’s a purposeful androgyny in the collection, with David Bowie in loose 1980s trousers appearing on Griffith’s mood board.
They have an appearance that invites contemplation, while providing unrestrained movement to a woman intent on intellectual pursuits.
Max Mara introduced a neutral color for next season, in raw linen that can range from gray to khaki, created by soft, sun-kissed shades of yellow, green and blue, Create a harmonious trio in a baggy top over a swimsuit combo, finished with a knit shower cap.
The bag is big enough for a weekend getaway. Shoes are the foundation sandals. And hats have oversized brims.
A model wears a piece as part of the Max Mara women’s Spring Summer 2023 collection presented in Milan (AP Photo / Antonio Calanni)
MOSCHINO SCAM
Jeremey Scott wants to draw attention to the global discourse. And he couldn’t be more literal with the Spring/Summer 2023 Moschino collection that incorporated inflatable pool floats into the look with more than a little unusual craftsmanship.
Plastic hoops give structure to the contour, while a raft in the pool becomes a tongue in the cheek. Cigarette references are everywhere: from the neckline, to the cup, to shoes and even handbags. More often than not the embossed material is part of the garment, like the inflatable lapel on a black garment. Lifesavers are also due, like helmets and inflatable bottles.
Underneath it all is a collection that values summer, with lots of warm-weather clothing in blue or yellow, with neat white trim; fun striped shorts reminiscent of beach umbrellas, accented with water beads as bracelets; and must-have bathing suits, which feature bright cartoon prints with jackets, hats and inflated plastic bags to match.
Scott said in the program notes that the references are a direct change from “inflationary. “
But underneath the inflatable hijinx, there are also lower numbers.
A sexy criss-cross long black dress anchored by large red hearts, and a vibrant pink evening gown were teamed with stiletto heels featuring a swooping flamingo. An elaborate mermaid gown in ocean blue features two hips with inflatable dolphins riding the waves, while an inflatable swan adds drama to the Grecian white dress.
“Ultimately, it’s about offsetting the negativity…even if the rest of the water is shaded in grey. That’s where joy can be found,” Moschino said in the note
FREE SPIRIT OF EMPORIO ARMANI
For his more youthful Emporio Armani collection, Giorgio Armani created a look tailored to travel, titled as a new collection: “In Transit”. A shadow of the Japanese Torii gate in the background of the show suggests a destination.
The collection is rooted in neutral and peaceful colors, with gentle movement created in plisses, beads, sequins and prints. Soft jackets provide an easy definition for summer wear, with wide-leg trousers, often centered at the ankle. Thin layers of fabric create overlays on pants, or as skirts or even elegant, flowing overalls. Elegant wrap trousers cut a modern silhouette with a sheer knit vest
Armani88 years old, received a standing ovation and prolonged applause at the end of the program.
Models wear creations from Max Mara’s Spring/Summer 2023 women’s collection (AP/PTI)
CLOSE DSQUARED2
Canadian twins Dean and Dan Caten designed by Dsquared2 have launched their cool beach and urban collection inside a chic old Milanese building.
“It’s the contrast. It is never predictable. So this is unpredictable for us. And collection is unpredictable, so two wrongs make one right,” Dan Caten said backstage after the show.
The designers chose the most transparent textile to create their summer layers: a blue lace jacket over a sheer yellow printed skirt, worn with a beach plaid. The large orange stripes of the 1970s work harmoniously with the green and brown flowers, while the orange and green stripes create a contrast with the blue, toned diagonal stripes. sur ton with a sheer green jacket.
The twins redefined the tiny bikini, pairing an oversized swimsuit with oversized swim trunks over white pants, for the ultimate surfing look.
Makeup is restrained and cool, blue lips or green eyes.
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