These designers are paving the way for a new era in sustainable fashion, courtesy of food and agricultural waste.

While the obvious solution of be mindful of our food consumption and food composting is common knowledge, the problem of food waste is still very much hidden in the national as well as global context.

So a handful of Indian fashion and accessory designers decided to do something about it. From agricultural waste fabrics to discarded fish scales, with their innovation, care about the climate and globally relevant designs, these creative minds have managed to change assumptions about fabrics made from waste and pave the way for new possibilities in truly eco-conscious design. futuristic, but rooted in the sustainable wisdom of India.

AltMat’s Altag yarn is made from agricultural waste. (Photo: AltMat)

“We have been wasting renewable resources such as agricultural by-products and biomass for many years. Not only are their economic costs associated with waste disposal, but they also result in serious hazardous air pollutants. We can use these residues as an alternative source to produce various products such as biogas, biofuels and create alternative materials,” said Shikha Shah, founder of a materials science company AltMat bridges the gap between “today’s waste and tomorrow’s fabrics”.

Fish scale skin

According to Mayura Davda of accessory label Mayu, it starts with changing perceptions of luxurious leather goods with the help of fish scales, Pineapple skin and Kauna grass, all derived from agricultural and food industry by-products/waste, while pineapple skin is a recent gift of sustainable technology, fish scales have long been used used to make leather in Northern Europe.

Mayu’s bag is made of fish scale leather. (Photo: Mayu)

Among its many benefits, Davda notes that fish skin production requires much less water, relatively lower hot water temperatures, and less energy than conventional production. skin make. It even reuses water 8-9 times than using water in cowhide.

“In the fashion scene, we see agricultural and food waste as untapped resources for the present and the future: to turn something less valuable into something fashionable and valuable. . This is the premise for our brand and our choice of materials to create sustainable high-end products that serve as an alternative to the typical luxury items that often come at the expense of premium products. endangered species for their ‘exotic’ skins,” said Davda.

Coconut skin

As for Cochin-based Malai Eco, their name means a lot, but it’s also no different. For those who can imagine’malay‘, which means ‘coconut cream’, can it be converted to skin? For Zuzana, a materials researcher for Slovakia, her discoveries with microbial cellulose began during her master’s degree in London, then she began exploring in India with the co-founder of Malai. is Susmith.

A Malaysian wallet made of coconut skin. (Photo: Malaysia Eco)

But how does coconut cream convert into skin? “Everything starts with coconut water in our case. After the mature coconut is broken down at the processing unit, the water is collected, filtered and prepared to become a bacterial culture. This is left to ferment for 12-14 days and then harvested in the form of plates or pieces. They are then enriched with natural fibers, dyed, dried and processed to become Malai leather panels,” explains Zuzana. Malai products are diverse, from wallets to funny bags, tote bags to backpacks.

Agricultural waste fabric

And while both Mayu and Malai Eco’s foundations lie in alternative fabrics, there are many brands that are happily jumping into the race. At the recent conclusion FDII x Lakme Fashion Week, Divyam Mehta presents its first collection made from agricultural waste, in collaboration with Altmat. Mehta defines fabrics, made from plant fibers left behind after the crop is cut, as “raw and refined at the same time; It feels like linen and falls like wool. ”

Part of Divyam Mehta’s latest collection presented at FDII x Lakme Fashion Week. (Photo: PR Handout)

When asked if he plans to experiment with more alternative fabrics for his future collections, Mehta’s reply was a resounding ‘yes’. “My second step is to take these fibers and do something bracelet with them. Then it completes the circle using more of my hand. ”

Challenges

However, sustainability innovations cannot and do not fulfill their purpose simply being there. Customer recognition and acceptance plays an important role not only in determining the success of these innovations, but also paving the way for environmentally conscious production and consumption in the future. future. And even though consumers are increasingly receptive to innovation and sustainability, thus allowing for both to create an encouraging scenario, “changing core materials is not an easy task; it’s a conscious change based on supply chain patience and consumer acceptance,” pointed out Shah.

AltMat fabric made from agricultural waste. (Photo: AltMat)

Davda also believes that even though her fish scale skin is 8-10 times stronger than traditional leathers, it has yet to achieve widespread knowledge and acceptance of the material. “Until a significant number of people do not adopt this lifestyle and consumption shift, it will be difficult to meet the economies of scale that enable access to such solutions. All stakeholders in this ecosystem must contribute in their own way: consumers on demand, manufacturers by innovating and producing solutions, brands by adopting these solutions. and authorities by making that line of innovation possible by providing the necessary support for change. ”

The challenge of this applies not only to the Indian context, but also from a global perspective. Zuzana commented that it is so because “We’re trying to introduce consumers to something new, something that applies different standards. Working with organic natural materials is something completely different from working with synthetic or man-made materials, where everything is in a unified, standardized form. That is a challenge for us, as a manufacturer, but also for consumers because they have to change the way they think and perceive quality.”

She also believes that although food waste as a resource for fabrics is the way forward, “we probably shouldn’t see this as a last resort. First of all, we still need to reduce the amount of stuff we put out.”

But, as Mehta rightly puts it, “There are always challenges, but we are here to find a solution to it. ”

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