Milan Fashion Week closed five days of runway shows for next season, marked by a sense of relief as strict pandemic rules are being eased but with growing anxiety about the war in Ukraine.
“This is a very sad moment, and that’s why we’re trying to bring back some love and peace and harmony,” said designer Dan Caten behind the scenes at DSquared2.
A lone protester stood dignified outside Sunday’s performances vying for attention, with a sign reading “Putin, Stop Bombing Ukraine,” and yellow and blue balloons, for the flag of country.
Highlights from the previews are mostly womenswear on Sundays for next spring and summer, celebrated as thousands gather in central Milan to demand peace:
RESET BOTTEGA VENTA
Bottega Veneta refreshed with the creative direction of Matthieu Blazy.
The new creative director sent a clear message of innovation with a first look at his debut collection Saturday night: A white tank and what appears to be jeans, but Made from soft nubuck fabric. Call it a nasopharyngeal cleanser.
And with that simple gesture, Blazy draws a straight line to the Veneto-born brand’s roots as a leather goods company, and whose sophistication is sometimes overshadowed by leather mules The eye-catching “intrecciato” (woven) of the predecessor and the bag.
A model wears a piece as part of the Bottega Veneta Fall/Winter 2022-2023 fashion collection. (AP Photo / Antonio Calanni)
The French designer has brought a fresh take to the brand: The bag of the season is the brand’s classic intreccio weave worn over the shoulder, not worn but fastened by a long strapless strap. often.
The garments themselves are defined in terms of movement, which Blazy said in the note regarding the brand’s heritage bags as a cue for commuting, at least out of the house. .
These include a mid-length A-line skirt with a ruched leather bust, to create a feather-like rustle with each step of the sculpted heel. Wispy’s sequined cocktail dresses with feather detailing are teamed with knee-high boots in glossy scarab blue, off-white or silver. Rounded sculpted shoulder straps bring life to the sheath dresses, accentuated by a luxurious gold-embellished woven clutch.
Julianne Moore and Raf Simons, designer Prada, who was Blazy’s boss when he came to work at Calvin Klein, took the front row in the brand’s new headquarters behind Milan’s City Hall. The space is still a work in progress, with raw concrete walls and reinforcing portions of the dome still visible.
FERRARI MAKES MILAN FEMALE RUNWAY
Ferrari unveiled its first collection in Milan, as it continues to expand from a supercar company into a luxury brand with runway buffers.
“Our first show was in Maranello because of course that’s our hometown, and it’s important to start there. We’re in Milan now because it’s the fashion capital and we have a very strong relationship with the future,” said creative director Rocco Iannone.
The runway looks to have maintained the brand’s ties to the racing world, with block leather pants and a matching racing jacket with padded elbows and geometric detailing, all sure to be a hit with riders. fan.
Iannone added new prints this season: camouflage in royal blue, black and gray, using the brand’s Prancing Pony logo, and a more abstract print taken from computer images of the tests. Speed test done on racing machine. They appear on knitted accessories, dresses, coats.
Sheer tops are accented with Swarovski crystals delicately inlaid with the Ferraro logo for a trendy look for all genders, worn with trousers or an elegant silver suit.
Ferrari this year opened stores in Maranello, Milan and Rome, and is expected to open more stores in the US in the coming months, including in Miami, Atlanta and Austin. The first collection was launched last June, and insiders say sales in China have been particularly strong. Stores will open there later next year in Shanghai and Beijing.
DSQUARED2 GO TO BOHEMIAN
Multi-layered bohemian style fills the DSquared2 runway for next fall and winter, giving fancy to any Gen-Z wish as Canadian design twins Dean and Dan Caten set their eyes on the next generation. the next luxury consumer.
The collection offers a wide range of entry points: from cropped sweaters to knit dresses; shearling booties to knee-high boots; sheepskin vests to wool coats; the long kilometers left open to the faded trousers. The right jewelry for any summer music festival completes the look, along with a backpack, knit cap, and water bottle.
“It is a new energy. She’s young, she’s modern, she’s Bohemian, free,” said Dean Caten. “It’s texture and texture. It’s not just about one thing anymore. ”
QUIRA BIRTH
Designer Veronica Leoni’s worked alongside Jil Sander and Phoebe Philo themselves at Celine on the launch of their new Quira label last year.
Her vast experience is reflected not only in the creations for her first winter collection, but also in her crystal clear ambitions: “I wanted to create the jacket. the best black you can find on the market,” she said.
Leoni will take on some big names for that title, and the goal is believed by her driving principal: to recreate an everyday wardrobe with mesmerizing hidden details. Her focus is on style rather than function. “Function makes garments generic. The style makes them special,” she said.
Leoni, 38, reinvented the 1990s sheath dress-jacket combo with a jagged plisse dress, worn with a pleated cape, all in an elegant tan. The trench coat is stripped down to the bonded fabric, lapelless and reversible. And a black car jacket has been recreated with a waist and bell sleeves, a more feminine version of itself.
She completed the look with hippie platform sandals and shiny leather essential boots that accentuated the look, along with a molded crossbody bag.
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