A bag can be an extra. A refuge of secrets. An extension of yourself. In its purest form, it is a deeply personal totem. When I look at the Acne Studios riveted wine box bag from the brand's spring/summer '24 collection — more of a rectangular box than a bag, completely covered in rivets — I think of her. The 16 year old wannabe goth in me. still leading the show when it comes to my personal style, or the 21-year-old techno fairy who constantly creates an overall vibe. No matter how long it's been, or how secretive or subtle these ghosts have become, they always reveal themselves when I choose my outfit. Visual signs of subversion are best expressed in details – a studded belt, a studded necklace, a studded bag. Studies are like code for an alternative – unmistakable messages that can turn any fit into a statement.
The shape of this particular bag, styled on the runway with streamlined all-black outfits and minimalist accessories, evokes a toolbox. What kind of tools are included is left to interpretation – and depends on the user and their destination. The story about the bag: It accompanies you and quickly becomes a part of yourself, of the journey. The riveted wine box bag, with its natural structure and sheer storage space, feels sturdy enough to endure a long day in LA and light enough not to drag you down. A t-shirt changes daily but usually the bag stays the same. We are the ones who personalize it. Even an item as distinctive as the SS24 riveted wine box bag becomes something completely different when worn by different personalities – similar to how no one person can wear them. perfume smells the same in two different people.
We asked the designer Bobby cabbage — along with three other artists, DJs, musicians and stylists — to incorporate the Acne Studios riveted wine box bag into his look and lifestyle for a day, dreaming up locations across the city where he will wear it. He chose to take the bag to Ragfinders of California, a world built entirely of fabric, and placed it next to pieces from his own collection made with natural materials – helping the bag literally shine. “It was its own moment,” he said.
The clothes I try to create are the future of what I think a standard piece of clothing can become. I try to design as if I'm in the future, not as if I'm trying to imagine what the future will be like.
— Designer Bobby Cabbagestalk
Who are you and what do you do?
I am a designer. My brand is Bobby Cabbagestalk, it names itself. The clothes I try to create are the future of what I think a standard piece of clothing can become. I try to design as if I'm in the future, not as if I'm trying to imagine what the future will be like. When you work backwards from there, you have a lot of different considerations where social and political perspectives impact how you approach your creative projects. When I start sewing a dress, jacket or t-shirt, I always have that standard in mind.
Describe your personal style.
I grew up in Buffalo, NY and like most kids [in the 2000s], my influences all come from rap. Ghostface Killah and Raekwon wear Tommy Hilfiger baggy pants from head to toe, which is standard. It's an exaggerated, colorful, confident silhouette that lets the world know, “I'm here and this is my personal opinion.” When I was a kid, Polo Ralph Lauren, Nautica, Eddie Bauer, any heritage brand I got my hands on, I was obsessed with. Get that East Coast-ready legacy [and] Streetwear and my love of sci-fi movies created a new starting point for me and my self-expression. So leather, more tailored styling, minimalism with function – it all comes together with this “cyber-prep” idea.
Talk to me about dreaming up an outfit around this Acne Studios bag.
The Acne bag is studded with stones so it is very architectural. It has a Brutalist color scheme with a chrome patina, so it really stands out naturally against any background – urban, rural, whatever. It was its own moment. What I wanted to do was join that conversation and just juxtapose metallics with natural fabrics: cotton shirts, leather jackets, leather pants. Then the long coat is three-quarter length and forms a nice A-line shape, so that's its own architectural moment as well.
How does a sense of place inform a sense of style? How do you travel through LA with an idea of style?
Many times we don't think of Los Angeles as a commuter city because we're in cars and not on foot. (It's not like you're in New York and you're walking or taking the train from one building to the next.) Still, I felt like there was a new sense of excitement walking through Los Angeles. Maybe because it's getting warmer, I'm seeing more people are expressive with the clothes they wear on the streets. I also think of Los Angeles as an event city. Before people leave home, they know exactly where they are going and how much time they will spend there. I don't like going out aimlessly. I like to go to a gallery opening or if there's a particular DJ I want to meet. And if I want to travel light, I'll just have a crossbody bag or I'll use a small bag. If I want to carry a camera, or if I know I'm going to be really social and on my feet for a long time, that will dictate the carrying system—where I can carry a larger bag or a tote bag. I think personal style is more important now than ever, because people have room to express their opinions, not just about themselves but about the world and how they can be seen authentically. And before social media, you could tell where someone was from based on what they wore. I think it would be really interesting if we [go] back to what makes us unique and who we are.
Producer: Pure studio
