The atelier – the craft studio – took to the Dior center stage on Monday for an exquisite show on the first day of Paris haute couture week, aimed at elevating the work of the house’s behind-the-scenes tailors. home.
Stars flocked to the Musee Rodin venue, including actresses Rosamund Pike and Crown Star Claire Foy, who posed for the camera, exclaimed: “It’s beautiful. I was amazed.”
Another VIP attended, Model and actress Cara Delevingnewas criticized for not wearing a mask.
Here are some highlights of Monday’s spring/summer 2022 haute couture collection:
DIOR CELEBRATES IFT CRAFT
Designer Maria Grazia Chiuri wanted to showcase how the craftsmanship of the “string petites” tailors, some of whom have worked in Dior’s workshops for decades, is just as important as art or fashion.
This muse is the springboard for a lavish and model couture show.
A case in point are the white beaded tapestries teeming with structured twill knits. It’s not just decoration here, luxurious embroideries really create the silhouette of the garment through sheer weight and splendor.
Elsewhere, an ash-gray crepe dress with a high waist makes a similar statement: It seems almost alive thanks to the myriad of long embroideries rustling and swaying over the pixie cut.
Talking through the clothes, Chiuri seemed to want to say: Art and craft are one and the same.
Embroidered stockings are also a big theme for spring, with Dior’s army of tailors already working on some of the outfits. Unfortunately, the sheer weight of paillette embroidery doesn’t always cut the most beautiful shapes on some tights, all of which are exquisitely executed.
Rosamund Pike poses before the presentation of the Dior Spring-Summer 2022 Haute Couture collection, in Paris. (AP Photo / Lewis Joly)
For style, there are hints of ’60s trends, with features like a Peter Pan collar appearing on a gorgeous organza blouse, or a fitted Bar tuxedo suit with menswear black satin lapels.
CARA DELEVINGNE MASK AT DIOR
Strict measures were taken during Paris Fashion Week to comply with French government guidance in the context omicron-driven new infection.
COVID-19, which has brought the fashion industry to a standstill, has seen countless shows canceled, even ending entire seasons and fashion shows being held again only on condition that guests Must present proof of vaccination and wear a mask while sitting. It’s the same rule for everyone whether it’s a celebrity or a journalist. France currently has Europe’s highest ever daily subscriptions Coronavirus cases.
Actress Rosumund Pike set a good example by carefully wearing a mask as soon as she sat down even while wearing a high-fashion Dior hat. Nearby, “The Crown” star Claire Foy also wore a mask after passing a photo call.
However, model and actress Cara Delevingne turned her head for all the wrong reasons: Not wearing a transparent mask while viewing the works from the front row.
SCHIAPARELLI HIGHER POWER QUESTIONS FOR ANSWER
Daniel Roseberry says of his haute couture collection that he wanted to respond to the “pervasive sense of burnout” and the sense of “lucky” that the pandemic has brought on so many people.
In particular, designer Schiaparelli asked himself on the drawing board how the house’s signature Surrealist motifs – first adopted by the late great Elsa Schiaparelli between the two World Wars – could be relevant in a world where reality itself is changing.
Answer? He went up to the heavens, through the channels of the heavenly bodies. It’s a case of “moving towards the elemental” to understand chaos, he said.
This haute couture collection thus became the realm of the haute couture priestess, one who wore exaggerated circular headdresses, dressed in gold, black and white, and flaunted by filling glistening and resplendent.
Gold jewelry – a shade specially created with 24K foil – hovered around a model’s bust in all directions as if suspended by supernatural powers. The column silhouette grows into interconnected white stems that open at the bust like a space flower, or into a giant graphic bib encrusted with black jewels.
Some silhouettes appear on the pastiche, such as spikes protruding incoherently from a bust of a model.
But the tough texture of many of the cloaks – one with golden tentacles splattering down like a jellyfish – certainly made up for it. The palatial setting – Le Petit Palais – with numerous moldings and busts was also added to the Grecian TV series.
MEMORY GAULTIER THIERRY MUGLER
French fashion designer Thierry Muglerwhose stage designs have been worn by celebrities such as Madonna, Lady Gaga and Cardi B, has died at the age of 73. His official Instagram announcement said he passed away on Sunday.
A contemporary of Jean Paul Gaultier who admired his work, Mugler was known for his architectural style, defined by his broad shoulders and small waist. Much has been said in the years of tension between the two fashion giants, rumors that Gaultier considers a thing of the past.
In a bittersweet message Monday, Gaultier told Related press that his old acquaintance was now “going to rehabilitate the angels and demons up there. The sky is his color. “
“Huge talent,” he added. “Always looking for perfection with my unique style!”
AZZARO SHINES AND SHIMMERS
Olivier Theyskens brings out the romance in all of us. In Monday’s embellished event, designer Azzaro rips off sequins and shimmer and comes into his own with unrepentant couture.
The brand, whose dazzling razzmatazz attracted stars including Brigitte Bardot and Sophia Loren during its heyday of the ’60s and ’70s, seems to have found in Theyskens the right ambassador.
The designs are fluid in every sense of the word. The first was the way glittering loose vestments dripped down the body. Second, to combine menswear and womenswear on gay and androgynous designs.
The house’s iconic ’70s frocks have been revamped, including a case with a low-cut aesthetic and a long, bare neckline, ending with a loop in the center.
Small details like the sparkling bead embroidery on the shoulders are still true to the brand but still very subtle.
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