Dean and Dan Caten gave a warm welcome to guests, including Swedish striker Zlatan Ibrahimovic, who gathered on Friday for the following Canadian design twins’ first live show. two years as Milan Fashion Week opens with a glimmer of optimism though omicron– Detailed translation.
“The big deal is being in this room,” they told the crowd in impromptu remarks before a performance for their DSquared2 label. “Thank you for being here and supporting us in our decision to hold a physical show. For us, this is a step forward.”
“It’s been two long years, and it’s great to be back,” the twins said before launching a colorful and cozy Canadian collection of puffer fish leather jackets, quilted side shorts. In addition to jeans, layers with flimsy wool blankets – just the ticket to being back in the open and away from the overwhelming crowds.
The spike in the omicron variation forced the Milan Fashion Week menswear previews for Fall-Winter 2022-23 to shrink, with significantly fewer events than originally planned. Access to those people is severely limited by pandemic restrictions as the number of viruses infecting Italy hits a record high almost daily.
A model wears creative clothes for the DSquared2 fall-winter 22/23 collection, in Milan. (AP Photo / Luca Bruno)
Global powerhouses such as Fendi, Dolce & Gabbana and Prada will still host live shows, while Milan mains Giorgio Armani has canceled them altogether and other brands have scrapped shows. performing on the digital stage. More than 40 scheduled live events have been reduced by a quarter, with about 15 live runway shows to follow along with physical showcases.
It is a far cry from the delta surge last year, when runways in Milan were completely closed.
Carlo Capasa, President of the Italian National Chamber of Fashion, said: “It is positive that many important brands have decided to hold runway shows, and this is a good sign. “Fashion is the second most important industry in Italy. It’s important to remember that we have to live with this virus, and we have to figure out how to protect people’s health while continuing to work, in order for this industry to keep going.”
As the pandemic continues to overshadow Europe, Paris has also confirmed a series of shortened runway shows from January 18-23, followed by haute couture, while London canceled its January calendar, will incorporate the women’s previews in February.
In Milan, fashionistas were surprised to find themselves sitting in the auditorium facing the big screen to preview Zegna.
People wait outside before the start of the 22/23 DSquared2 fall/winter fashion show, in Milan. (AP Photo / Luca Bruno)
Instead of the live performance many expected, creative director Alessandro Sartori showed a 15-minute video of models wearing predominantly white, black and gray outfits on a snowy street in Zegna’s Oasi nature reserve in neighboring Piedmont. He continues his technical demonstration of new looks with live models.
“This is 10% live and 90% virtual,” Sartori told guests. “It would have been the other way around if we hadn’t had these problems,” he said, referring to the latest viral outbreak that arose in a symphony that seemed to go perfectly with the fashion calendar.
Zegna is rebranding, removing founder Ermenegildo Zegna’s first name from its official name and consolidating its three lines, along with a recent public listing on the New York Stock Exchange to spur growth. Future. The new logo – evoking the road with yellow lane markings – denotes the main road through the family sanctuary, but also the way forward.
Gildo Zegna, Brand CEO, said defiantly.
Sartori has re-imagined the suit for younger customers, offering soft tailored outerwear, layered over tops and trousers, all in tailored fabrics. different weights. A faux cashmere turtleneck unifies them. In Sartori’s vision, luxury menswear buyers would build up their wardrobes from season to season, adding new models with a dominant palette of off-white, black and flannel grey, which are offset. Filled with this season by the color of aubergine and burnt gray he calls vicuna, because the camel is raised for its precious wool.
In contrast, the DSquared2 collection signals the way in a more obscene, more devil-interested way. The layered look, featuring cropped puff tops, pleated plaid skirts and sequined shorts, suggests that hippies are still looking for a Grateful Dead travel show, but a lot of fun. When it comes to time climbing or hiking through the snow with the help of removable crampons, the water bottle is pushed in a front pocket.
Canadians don’t need to partner with an outdoor brand to show that the wilderness is in their DNA – unlike another Milan brand.
Federico Cina launched his brand just before the pandemic hit, so it might be appropriate for him to debut on the catwalk as the virus continues to spread. The tunic features a ribbed knit top or free-falling cables that are easily layered over wide leg pants. The catwalk debut collection features a leaf motif, drawn from woodblock prints from the coastal regions of Emilia-Romagna.
“I never thought about giving up,” Cina said backstage. “Especially when the fashion room gave me the moment to appear during Milan Fashion Week. It is just huge. I never thought of not doing the show, especially with the right precautions.”
The Italian fashion scene has been affected by the pandemic since Italy recorded its first locally transmitted virus case in the West in the middle of fashion week in February 2020. Armani was the first to close. doors to its showroom to a live audience, streaming the Fall Winter 2020-21 Collection from an empty theater.
AC Milan striker Zlatan Ibrahimovic awaits the launch of the DSquared2 fall-winter collection. (AP Photo / Luca Bruno)
The digital trend continued, with some exceptions on the live runway, until last September’s womenswear previews for spring-summer 2022, as vaccination rates heralded the return of live shows as a rule, albeit in limited numbers and Limit social contact. That should be enough to make the promise that fashionistas in a niche somewhere close to pre-pandemic numbers can once again pack seats on the runway, where they can discern fabrics firsthand. shimmer that is silk or satin.
For this edition, travel restrictions and concerns have meant that many editors and buyers planning to visit Milan this month have canceled, especially from the United States, Capasa said. In addition, many parts of Asia and Eastern Europe – important fashion markets – are implementing vaccinations not approved by European health authorities, restricting travel to Italy.
Under current health guidelines, fashion houses must allow four square meters (just over 40 square meters) per guest – a space that previously could accommodate up to eight people. In many cases, that meant a tenth of the pre-pandemic audience, demanding tough calls even as fewer people traveled. Additional protective FFP2 mask is required.
In terms of fashion, the pandemic is currently in its eighth season. Capasa is pleased to note that no outbreak has ever been traced back to fashion week.
“We have to learn to live with this virus and maintain a high level of vigilance for behaviour,” Capasa said. “If we’ve learned anything, it’s that we need to think very quickly and adapt to the situation.”
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