Milan’s men’s fashion designers seem to have decided the answer, but the question remains: Will the lockdown encourage men to embrace more feminine images, including skirts and miniskirts. and jacket?
Milan Fashion Week preview for next winter and fall continues on Monday on Saturday, with guests amused by the pandemic standard of Limit social contact compared to the cramped shoulder-sitting style of the past. The calendar is collapsed after omicron Variations began to spike in Italy last month, but the live shows that have taken place before that are an optimistic sign following the digital-only Milan Fashion Week in January 2021.
Eager fans crowded the sidewalks outside of runway shows, hoping to see Italian rapper Mahmoud at Fendi, or Machine Gun Kelly and fiancée Megan Fox at Dolce & Gabbana.
As a rule, the men’s collections on the Milan catwalks this season have so far remained conservative in the color palette, leaving the silhouette adventurous.
Fendi’s collections for next fall and winter are infused with disciplined tailoring and house chic – with some welcome eccentricities to clear things up. These include a leather aviator hat with the flair of a Moroccan fez.
The tapered palette of grays, blacks and ivory whites with red spots seems to suggest that the collection is still business, but then Silvia Venturini Fendi created some surprising silhouettes, starting Top with a men’s Bermuda short with the cut and flow of a dress, worn with knee-high pants and a Mary Janes two-tone lace-up belt. Then she suggested wide-leg dress pants that only from the back showed a skirt. They are combined with a jacket or a knit top with a feminine flare at the bust.
Leaning on voluminous femininity, the trapezoidal outerwear with wide, fluted sleeves is built in a pyramidal pattern with pretty layered cape coats in black-and-white or ivory-white.
A model wears creatively for Fendi’s fall/winter 22/23 collection, in Milan. (AP Photo / Antonio Calanni)
The accessories are never exaggerated, even with a triple: bucket hat, crossbody bag and overnight bag arranged in a perfect geometry. Fendi are not the first to wear pearls for men, they have attached their exquisite necklaces. The fashion house also continued the trend of small bags – forget wallets and find pockets for phones – which men wear on chains.
While womenswear at Fendi was taken over by British designer Kim Jones, who launched a vibrant collaboration with Versace, the menswear collection still bears the hallmarks of Silvia Venturini Fendi, representing the world third Fendi system.
Machine Gun Kelly signed for Dolce & Gabbana, making at least three wardrobe changes during the show and delivering his jacket to Fox in the front row before performing at the end of the show. The rapper is known for his taste in fancy dress, and he certainly found plenty to shop for on the runway.
Dolce & Gabbana’s puffy jacket and matching trousers make the Michelin man look slim, with bubblegum pink or doodling with the season’s graffiti print. The warmth is so guaranteed that at least one model wears only branded briefs. As an alternative to the cold weather, there are snowmen’s obnoxiously fluffy eco-hairs with matching boots and earmuffs.
This season’s coats have exaggerated shoulders, teamed with leggings and worn with visors and molded sneakers. A silver sequined ensemble was very stage-worthy, with thin frames on the nose in a way that was more reminiscent of sci-fi lasers than reading glasses. A bold graffiti-adorned streetwear piece finished with a blue knit cap gives a Marge Simpson vibe.
While the flash is part of the Dolce & Gabbana repertoire as well as its own design, what’s more surprising are the men’s dresses. A tweed midi tied with a gold chain is worn with a ripped DG T-shirt and a leather collar. One kilogram of black has a sweater scribbled with DG graffiti. A shimmery pink to gold mini dress or tunic, depending on your preference, is teamed with matching leggings.
There’s nothing about this season’s skirt silhouette on the Milan men’s runways that came as a surprise to the designers at London-based brand JordanLuca, which made its debut in Milan.
Jordan Brown, who launched the label with Luca Marchetto four years ago, said: “I think the popularity of menswear is very wide right now. “We post, post, post, what are menswear and womenswear.”
Tailor-made kilos, some with tulle panels, were the mainstay of the season at JordanLuca.
“It’s a matter of kilograms, it’s four or five meters of fabric. It’s really engineering, it’s a fabricated garment. Why wouldn’t a man wear it? How to fold, pleat, sew. It was pretty hard to do,” Brown said backstage.
The brand’s delightfully elongated silhouette is accentuated by elongated wing-like hems on the tight-fitting trousers. The look is rock-n-roll, incorporating elements inspired by punk, glam and grunge. These include pants that are deliberately ripped off above the knee and fastened with a rhinestone brooch or a soft mohair sweater accented with a long pointed thread that wraps around the neck.
The collection expresses a strong desire to go out into the world, to be liberated from the limitations of the pandemic.
“The more we went back to the physical performances, the more we felt we were coming back to our physical, that kind of human spirit, that kind of visceral instinct,” says Brown.
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