How did the paradox of the universe, full of prismatic galaxies and endless emptiness, come to be? How can the light of a dead star still shine? What legends do we tell ourselves to account for the silhouettes we see glittering in the night sky?
What the hell does this have to do with fashion?
Very little, it seems. But when it comes to the mind of Alessandro Michele, creativity director of Gucci, everything. It contains universes within itself, full of swirling veils and lamés, baseball caps and nerd glasses, a whole star system of sequins and suits, plus random philosophical black holes that everything sometimes sucked in. Not to mention a host of high priests and nuns like Jared Leto and Dakota Johnson who specialize in modeling his particular brand of sartorial. legend.
Iconic fashion
It was a clear Monday anyway, when the annual ceremony of the Gucci travel show took place in Puglia, Italy, at the Castel del Monte under the light of the moon. A 13th-century military castle on the edge of the Adriatic created as a stone and octagonal paean according to humanistic principles and both Eastern and Western traditions, it is also a UNESCO world Heritage.
That’s right, less than a week after Louis Vuitton unveiled its yacht collection at Salk Institute in San Diegothis is another resort exhibition in a rare architectural masterpiece of great aesthetic and intellectual significance.
Called “Cosmogony,” the Gucci collection was inspired, according to the show’s notes, not just by the title’s “study of the evolutionary behavior of the universe” (at least as Britannica defines it). ), but also by German philosopher Walter Benjamin, on “Artwork in the Age of Mechanical Reconstruction” and Hannah Arendt, wanted to collect meaningful quotes from others and the whole idea of “constellation thinking”. That is, connecting past and present to create “previously unknown configurations of reality that can break the constraints of traditional.“
Rub. Understand? To some extent, it’s just a fashion interpretation that always works: to think about the future, to help develop the past. But in Michele’s hands, it’s also a literal practice that essentially means novel ways of combining with other familiar clothes, exploding many old social rules about who is allowed. what to wear when.
Admittedly, if you’ve been following his work since he started The Gucci Revolution in 2015, his breakthroughs don’t look new anymore. But they still have their own attraction and energy.
Facing the soaring towers of medieval castles and the dripping streams of voices from the 1969 Apollo 11 moon landing, have grown old. Hollywood The burgundy velvet gown is adorned with silver roses – and a diamond cut in the middle to frame the navel – combined with bug eye color.
There are thigh-high leather gladiator boots under sheer floor-swept skirts that cover only the skin underneath or the shaggy faux fur. Latex opera gloves with almost anything. The coats mailed the top of the button-down shirts. Denim material is studded and embroidered. Detachable Pierrot shank and strawberry wallet. Finally, an ink blue cape with Orion’s Belt and the constellations Ursa Major and Cassiopeia glittered on top.
The constellations have landed! A small step for the wardrobe. One giant step to redefine obsess with stars. Science, not people, is kind.
(This article originally appeared in The New York Times.)
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