‘Harnaaz clearly, she wanted to wear something sustainable’: Saisha Shinde as she designed the Miss Universe finale outfit

For the many rounds leading up to the finale, Sandhu, 21, donned elaborate Indian designer outfits – an intricately embroidered lehenga, vibrant gowns, and finally a dress that she chose for the finale event.

Saisha Shinde was commissioned to design a gown that would complement the prestige, history, and brilliance of the crown. Still brimming with excitement and joy over her victory, Saisha, who is now the first Indian transgender designer to dress for Miss Universe India, spoke to indianexpress.com about the details that went into creating the dress, working with Sandhu and designing for women as women.

Saisha Shinde designed the dress for Harnaaz Sandhu, Miss Universe 2021.

Excerpt:

How do you feel when you see your work on Miss Universe?

I’ve been a contest fan and nerd since forever. Last night, I had a viewing party with my friends, but the contest time was 5:30 am (available at India Voot Select). We were all very tired by the time it started, but by the time Harnaaz made the Top 20, we were all just waiting for her to win, because I knew this girl was going to win when I met her. her first time. It is strange; while it was she who won it but I feel like we all won, the whole team, because we worked so hard with her.

Can you tell us about the dress?

The decision to design the finale costume was made before Harnaaz was crowned. But I supported her win because I knew she had potential. She’s Miss India after all, and there’s a unique way for Miss India to dress for an international pageant – quintessential, not too revealing, edgy and fussy. So the basics were discussed before even Harnaaz came to buy accessories.

Work starts a week before Miss Diva started. Fabric selection, embroidery and pattern development started 20 days ago. We went through with altering the dress to perfect it, and right before she left the country, the dress was completely finished and we were all happy with it.

When I usually make Ao Dai for Miss India and Miss Universe, I like to have a little story about the girl in the Ao Dai, but at the same time don’t shout that it has this inspiration; it should be subtle. Since she is from Punjab, I was inspired by phulkari motif, very symmetrical and geometric, and has a lot of straight lines in it, which I tried to incorporate in the cape. Of course, the dress is symmetrical, but has a mosaic-like pattern all over, along with straight lines to make her look taller. Color is a controversial choice because everyone has an opinion about what color should be. But in the end we trusted Natasha Grover (brand executive, Miss India organization), and we got a silver champagne award.

I wanted an element of movement because Harnaaz’s walk has a unique sway, that’s why we added Swarovski crystal tassels. And of course, there are exquisite hand embroidery with thousands of crystals. However, we also made sure that we created a design in which we could use materials that were in the office and were not used instead of buying new. Harnaaz was very clear that she wanted to wear something sustainable. So we’ve used the unused elements in such a way that it looks appropriate and doesn’t wear out.

Harnaaz Sandhu, Miss Universe India 2021 poses for a portrait after being crowned Miss Universe.

What was Harnaaz’s vision of the cloak?

I have sewn ao dai for about six or seven Miss Indias so far, and four for Miss Universe. But when Harnaaz entered the initial discussion, she was almost in tears as she said, “I have dreamed of this day, sitting with you and discussing my Miss Universe dress, And it’s actually happening!” And I was very emotional because it was such a simple dream and there was a strong emotion attached to it. Immediately I knew this girl had something in her. She is very polite, extremely humble and has a vision. She says, “I trust you and leave this to you,” and when a designer has that kind of freedom, you feel great. And when she tried on the dress for the first time, she cried and said, “This is my winning dress!”

This is your first time designing a costume for a contest as a transgender woman. How does it feel?

Like Swapnil, whenever I’ve designed before, it’s ultimately a man’s view of what a woman should be like. Now, that’s a woman’s view of what a woman should be like. There is a huge difference between what I have designed in the past and what I am designing now. It just feels like my decision was the right one. In fact, as Saisha, my first dress was for Miss India, Harnaaz, and she went on to win Miss Universe. It’s almost like God is saying “You made the right decision!”

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