Paris is at the center of the global luxury industry this week with Tuesday marking the first big day of ready-to-wear shows. The Great Powers Saint Laurent and Dior among 107 brands presenting their spring-summer 2023 collections at Paris Fashion Week. Here are some highlights so far:
DIOR’S NOSTALGIC PALACE
Guests include Natalie Portman, Maggie Gyllenhaal, Rosamund Pike and Emma Raducanu curiously peer into a decaying palace recreated inside an annex of the Tuileries Gardens. Vines weave their way through Renaissance doors, through faded wooden beams and weathered columns to evoke the mystery of a bygone era.
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The brand explains: Based on Dior’s headquarters on Avenue Montaigne, this set was also inspired by Catherine of Medicis, a Renaissance queen who moved to the Tuileries in the 16th century. There are famous gardens and a palace built on the site that was razed. Catherine also wore Italian Burano high heels, corsets and laces to the French court – chosen by Dior designer Maria Grazia Chiuri in this thought-provoking show of 84 looks, heavy on black and white.
Twisted dancers performed in ribbed corsets, high Renaissance waistlines, and laces wrapped around a majestic dusty runway.
Despite having modern features like iridescent fabric and handy toggles, Chiuri’s aesthetics rarely stray from history. And to great effect – it made for the most powerful Dior show of the seasons.
Heavy 80’s(15)80s Renaissance pleas and folds run down to a dress covered by a black “cyclo” vest that may have been worn at the YMCA for years (19 years) ) 80. An amazingly outdated LBD with a skirt that puffs out like the top of a full skirt, but adorned with sweatpants.
FIRST RECRUITMENT SENSOR OF BOTTLES
Sartorial met aquarists on Tuesday at Botter’s co-editorial show with slim lapels, boxy jackets and beautiful tailoring. They wear light colored clothes.
Declaration of standing still sport shoes – again, in vivid colors – contrast with trendy suits that sometimes feature marble veins to evoke the tentacles of marine life.
The distressed double denim shirt continues the underwater vibe for a male model slamming down the runway with a blue knit mask all over her face and transparent spheres in her hands. It made him look as if he had been attacked by a jellyfish. Or Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh’s performance could be another dig into Coronavirus pandemic.
YSL ABOUT SEXY HOODS
Impressive ’80s shoulders, column silhouettes – and hoods – from the last heyday Yves Saint Laurent at a Tuesday night performance by a famous artist in Paris, all set against the glittering Eiffel Tower.
The label’s founder has made “capuche” one of his most iconic styles – originally inspired by the tubular cover worn by dancer Martha Graham for her 1930s Lamentation choreography. So Saint Laurent will likely love the work of designer Anthony Vaccarello, who took this hooded look and ran – or strutting – with it.
A ’90s innovation infused the ’80s glamor cap with muted or caramel tones – colors that are also reminiscent of that colorful era. This hood forms the base silhouette of many vintage outfits, contrasted with gold earrings or large wooden bracelets, and lends a feminine appeal. Open heavy wool coat and regal grooves, caressing the floor, creating a rectangular window frame through which pants in some smart fashion theater can be seen. Elsewhere, short turtlenecks over body-hugging tops evoke an aesthetic that screams sensual pleasure.
VAQUERA BRINGS THE STARS AND STRATEGY TO PARIS
A hilarious American moment hit Paris during fashion week on Monday – a day dedicated to the connoisseurs. Vaquera, who rose to prominence 5 years ago in New York with a giant US flag gown trainmoved this season across the pond and was a standout.
Designers Patric DiCaprio and Bryn Taubensee have blended their edgy style with a more commercial look for spring-summer. The distressed denim, the bohemian and punk material of Vivienne Westwood’s golden age and Americana references – like a thin coat biker jacket – identified 31 skins that are generally marketable.
The US flag has returned to its runway, here as an absolute shawl leading down to a fabulous parachute dress.
LANCOME’S LIFE IS BEAUTIFUL
The first big party of the season celebrated one of Paris’ most iconic perfume and cosmetics brands: Lancome. A stone staircase glistening in colored light led VIP guests including model Noemie Lenoir into the palatial Petit Palais on the banks of the Seine on Monday night.
This season Lancome, owned by L’Oreal, celebrating the 10th anniversary of the best-selling French perfume “La Vie Est Belle” – or “life is beautiful”. Victoria’s Secret model Sara Sampaio also performed the party in the famous art museum in a frilled black mini.
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