Unusually high air conditioning with next summer looks on the runways of Milan Fashion Week is becoming an exercise in cognitive dissonance.
While nodding to sustainability, the designers still recommend styles that are not affected by the longer summer heatwaves, and instead, seem to focus on customers who live in the region. Northern climates who can count on cool evenings or air conditioning or those who don’t like don’t care.
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Some highlights from Sunday’s menswear staple preview for Spring-Summer 2023:
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GINGHAM NOSTALGIA OF PRADA
The Miuccia Prada-Raf Simons collaboration at Prada has been a proven success, producing recognizable pieces that capture attention and brand recognition from afar. It’s been a feat for the co-creators, who have joined forces like the pandemic that has put the globe on lockdown, and this hasn’t fully eased yet.
Silhouettes for the next spring and summer are studied and refined, yet another easy read. It started with lapelless suits with hidden buttons, taper trousers to pointed boots. The pair introduced masculine notes with ribbed or blocky striped knitwear. Oversized bags contribute to a sense of childhood, playing with adult things, while models step through paper simulations of a scale house.
Nostalgia comes in the form of oversized ginghams, reminiscent of a kitchen tablecloth, traditionally worn by women, played against skin tone: sleeveless and ribbed shorts, sometimes with gingham ruffles folded in Between.
Questions still exist: What is a summer wardrobe like? Where exactly is this summer?
But judging from those in the fashion crowd dressed in knit turtlenecks and leather jackets, the question may be beyond the point where Prada is concerned.
Backstage, Prada greeted guests including Jake Gyllenhaal, Jeff Goldblum and Rami Malek, who wore a cashmere gray short-sleeved cardigan and an organza dress.
“Fashion as a style, a way as well as a means of being,” the designers said in the program notes. “An expression of choice.”
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MOSCHINO BRING MENSWEAR TO MILAN
Jeremy Scott set the quirky Moschino tune with a growl, before bursting into full graphic inspiration from the late American artist Tony Viramontes.
This was Moschino’s first mens-only show in Milan.
Scott said he wanted “to shine a little light on this amazing creator” described in the fashion note as “a vibrant, brightly colored chameleon”.
The grimaces on the two-tone jacket set the pop art tone, followed by the creases drawn down the pants and lapels, emerging into graphic dot prints and reproduction photographic details. create the appearance of wrinkles on clothing.
The slightly militaristic Moschino silhouette for Spring-Summer 2023 challenges gender norms in a way that is increasingly becoming mainstream on luxury runways.
Pleated aprons are worn over shorts or trousers, either front or back, to create a skirt effect.
But there’s no reason to stop there, because Scott also imagines pleated punk dresses and longer straight dresses for men. These guys don’t look quite feminine, dressed in military-style coats and hats with combat boots, not irritating by the image of makeup down to the eyes.
Scott saluted the runway in a kilo of olives with a T-shirt that reads “Misfits” on the front and “EARTH AD” on the back.
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‘REAL BITES’ WITH SIMON CRACKER
Designers Filippo Biraghi and Simone Botte have taken a radical turn during the pandemic and dedicated the Simon Cracker brand they founded in 2010 entirely to cyclical materials.
Designers collect unclaimed garments from launderettes and textile remnants from manufacturers, to create unique creations for their growing following, called Cracker Crew. Source materials include old cotton and linen linens, men’s shirts, old umbrellas, discarded yarn for new knitwear, and recycled shirts.
The collection for Spring-Summer 2023 is called “Reality Bites”, from the 1990s Gen-X movie but more appropriately referring to the world situation, and most specifically the difficulties the brand has emerging has had to go through recently.
“We are living a difficult time,” Biraghi said backstage. “” Reality Bites “is a bit of our experience in the moment.”
They describe the collection as a cross between Holly Hobby and Sex Pistols, packed with punk accents with ruched ruching. The look is decorated with innocent embroidery, small splashes of color or childish doodles.
Botte said: “It was as if the clothes were born beautiful and then bitten.
The models are those from their Cracker Crew, including different body types and attitudes.
An elderly male model wearing a pair of high-waisted knit pants, accented with a red ribbon and a loose jacket with flowing orange silk moves in an ecstatic dance across the runway, in when a woman wears a corset over the layered skirts of men walking away. shirt carrying a small dog.
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