Choosing the right product
Even though you can pick up a retinol product at nearly any drugstore or department store, Shokeen says it’s best to first consult with a dermatologist to ensure that retinol is suitable for you, especially if you are breastfeeding or have a skin condition, such as eczema or rosacea. Pregnant women shouldn’t use retinols, Shokeen adds.
Generally, dermatologists advise starting with a mild formulation to reduce the risk of redness and irritation. Pick a brand you trust and choose its lowest-concentration product, Garshick suggests. Don’t pay too much attention to the exact percentage of retinol advertised on the label, because different brands use different retinol compounds – so a product that has 1 per cent retinol could be essentially equivalent to another product that has 0.3 per cent.
If you have sensitive skin, you may want to seek out a product that includes other ingredients – such as ceramides, niacinamide or hyaluronic acid – to help counteract dryness and inflammation, Garshick says. Also, look for retinol products labelled “encapsulated,” meaning the retinol is enveloped in a protective barrier and released into the skin over time, making it potentially less irritating.
When and how to use retinols
Above all, the experts say to start slow and be patient.
“Retinols can take anywhere between two to three months to start to take effect, and the benefits can continue to improve over the course of six months,” Garshick says. It might take even longer before you start to see certain improvements with low-concentration retinols, she adds.
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To ensure that you’re not allergic to any of the ingredients in a product, Shokeen suggests first applying it to a small patch of skin on the inside of your arm. If the skin doesn’t become red, itchy or swollen within minutes or hours, you can start using it elsewhere, she says.
Garshick advised using the product one or two times a week for the first two weeks, to allow the skin to acclimate to it, and always applying it at night, since retinol breaks down when exposed to sunlight. ”If the skin starts to become very red and irritated, feels like it’s burning or stinging, or there’s a lot of itching,” it’s time to take a temporary break, she says. Once your skin can handle a twice-weekly dose without becoming irritated, you can gradually increase the frequency to daily, she says. You can also switch to a stronger product.
Mitchell recommends applying a non-comedogenic (non-pore-clogging) moisturiser after using retinol to counteract irritation and dryness. And because retinol can make the skin more sun-sensitive, it’s always smart to use sunscreen during the day.
Some people with acne may initially break out more when they first start using retinol, but these flare-ups are usually brief and the skin soon improves, Mitchell says.
“Your skin may look worse before it starts to look better, so try not to get discouraged,” she said.
The New York Times
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