What were your favourite collections, trends or items from the AW24 season?
After a soft and romantic spring/summer 2024 season filled with florals, embroidery and transparency, the autumn/winter 2024 catwalks felt a bit more toned down, as many designers went back to their roots and focused on what they do best. A great example of this is Chloé. Everyone was so excited for Chemena Kamali’s homecoming [the creative director began her career as part of Phoebe Philo’s team and later rejoined as design director to Clare Waight Keller in 2012]. It was refreshing to see her bring the core nature of the brand back into focus with her playful take on everyday dressing. There was a lot of great energy at the show. No question, the Chloé girl is back.
Bottega Veneta was another brand that showed a lot of consistency. I loved all of the knitwear, coats and leather trousers. The suede midi-skirts were also very strong. A personal favourite was the long column skirt and matching structured knit.
Going into some key trends for the season, dark tones were prominent across the board for brands such as Comme des Garçons and Valentino, which delivered an all-black show filled with depth and complexity, while many others leaned heavily into shades of brown. Green, however, takes the spotlight as the colour of the season.
Textures also showed up for the party in the form of shaggy fake fur and shearling in almost every single catwalk collection. Simone Rocha, Chopova Lowena and Miu Miu ultimately did it best. It’s not often that I see collections I absolutely fall in love with from the beginning to the end, but Miu Miu was an exception for delivering a masterclass on storytelling. I loved the suede jackets and play on colours. The excitement in the room was palpable.
As for the accessories of the season: oversized gloves and mittens in shearling, leather or knits, with brands such as Marni, Simone Rocha and, once again, Miu Miu delivering on the must-haves for this fall/winter season ahead.
Bows will also continue to be a recurring embellishment for autumn, and Prada is a best-in-class example. There was something extremely cool and interesting about look 20 [pictured below]. I loved the end of the show with all of the technical parkas worn with gloves and very sophisticated footwear.
Prada AW24 at Milan Fashion Week
Finally, looking at big picture thematics, what felt like a common thread across many collections was the idea of “protection”, either through lots of layering, or extreme bonding and structures that are designed to protect the inner self. From the sculptural pieces at Junya Watanabe, to the moulded leather coat at Acne Studios, the exaggerated layering at Thom Browne and all the cosy knits at Rick Owens, everyone did it their own way. This to me, was the resounding theme of the season.
What were your key buys this season?
Knitwear from Bottega Veneta and Rick Owens, the embroidered suede jacket from Miu Miu, the double-faced cashmere wrap coat from The Row, and many of the fake fur and crystal-embellished items from Simone Rocha.
What will Ssense’s customers be shopping for in the next six months, and what will influence this?
For autumn/winter 2024, our customers will have many options for everyday dressing, which was a common theme across many collections. We expect them to lean into layering through more sweaters and coats for the season, but also more emotional purchases through long-term investment pieces.
Simone Rocha AW24 at London Fashion Week
How has Ssense’s product selection evolved over the past six months?
Sophistication will come into focus, as people err on the side of conservative – with an edge – while maintaining this idea of being comfortable but extremely chic at the same time. We’ll see less skin in general, with elongated silhouettes by way of long dresses, skirts and jackets taking precedence in our wardrobes next season.
Have you discovered any new brands or designers for AW24?
We’re very excited to work with Alainpaul this autumn/winter. This was his first catwalk show, and we absolutely loved his take on ballerina leotard pieces and a tailoring-inspired scarf.
Rick Owens AW24 at Paris Fashion Week
Finally, any stand-out moments from fashion month?
On a very personal level, the Rick Owens show during Paris Fashion Week was a full-circle moment for me. Coming back to Palais Bourbon had me feeling nostalgic for the days, 19 years ago, when we used to do our buys from his home, which housed his original showroom.
