Dior’s feminist designer Maria Grazia Chiuri used the male gaze, as reflected in oil-painted portraits of women through the centuries, to create a fashion statement about empower and subjugate women.
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But Tuesday’s vibrant ready-to-wear show in Paris, set in the splendid Tuileries Garden, is just another beautifully conceived collection – one of the designer’s finest. Italy – prepared to begin. Paris Fashion Week on a strong creative foundation.
As editors busied themselves with filings through countless masterpieces, some expressed relief that the French government had made the mask no longer mandatory at exhibitions.
However, even though charm and upbeat momentsThe conflict in Ukraine is not far off in the minds of those in the fashion industry – the Paris Fashion Federation has released a rare statement in favor of freedom.
Here are some highlights of the fall-winter 2022 ready-to-wear shows.
DIOR BREAKING HISTORY
An installation of Leonardo da Vinci’s masterpiece “Lady with an Ermine” hangs at the entrance that makes fashionistas, including pop stars, RihannaModel Elle Macpherson and female tennis player Maria Sharapova, inside the venue Explore the murals.
Although the art appears at first to be at home at the nearby Louvre Museum, upon closer inspection the female subjects exhibit jarring double eyelids that are contemporary and seem to represent a new kind of vision. of women.
This, the work of contemporary Italian artist Mariella Bettineschi, is Chiuri’s starting point – the work she used to explore and structure historic women’s fashions.
Corsetry, 1940s bar jacket (manufacturer’s signature), as well as sheer layering reimagines previous years’ codes.
But this time for Dior, it’s all about protection or armor against the world – with the onslaught of fashion technology.
With her head down hard, the first model wore an intense, minimalist black jumpsuit with white lines – like a skeleton and a cut.
Bright multicolored leather gloves evoke the form of 18th century style to the elbow, imagined in contrasting cyclist style with padding at the knuckles.
A silver jacket with sporty dark veins. Shirt-like corsets with snap fasteners made of plastic, in one of countless fashion exposures. A black perforated corset is very stiff and impenetrable.
There are plenty of perfectly executed moments, some of which are even reminiscent of a Japanese warrior.
Chiuri is trying to say: Women have been subdued for too long, so now we’ll use those same clothes to empower ourselves as we move into the future.
But one question on the mind of fashion critics: Is it Dior? haunted by history perhaps a sign that it can’t move past its legacy to fully embrace a fresh fashion aesthetic?
IDEAS FOR UKRAINE
It was the elephant in the room at Paris Fashion Week. When bombs fall in Europe, what justifies exclusive fashion collections with fragrances wafting through the air? There’s no one. However, the Parisian fashion house tried to resolve this conundrum with a statement sent to the AP of solidarity with Ukraine.
Ralph Toledano, President of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, said that when “the great fashion family gathered for Paris Fashion Week, war struck Europe brutally and left the people of Ukraine in disarray. fall into fear and upheaval”.
He suggested that the show continue because creativity itself is “based on the principles of freedom, under any circumstances. And fashion has always contributed to individual and collective emancipation and expression in our society. ”
The federation has issued a warning – that you “experience the performances of the coming days with dignity and reflection in these dark hours”.
STAR STARTED TO OFF WHITE
The The death of venerable American designer Virgil Abloh Last year still cast a shadow over the Paris fashion industry. Since his death in November, there have been two fashion events for him at Louis Vuitton, where he is a menswear designer – the first in Miami and the second in the menswear collection in London. Paris. On Monday night, his personal brand Off-White launched its fall-winter show but it looks like it’s more of a tribute to him than anything else.
His post-designed show is called “Spaceship Earth” – and in keeping with the interstellar theme, the stars appear in constellations: A$AP Rocky, Rihanna, Idris Elba and Pharrell Williams .
Signature hoodies, urban designer pants, handy toggles, fluorescent colors, and statement branding all feature here in abundance, often in black and set against the trim of one. giant chandelier.
But there are also bittersweet moments that seem to involve the designer’s own battle with a rare form. cancer.
The handbag appears with the words “more life” and a bag filled with red and white pills.
UPDATE OF BOTTLE
Could there be a more wacky way to start a woman’s ready-to-wear than a topless male model perched on the back of a bright blue faux fur chair? Sure is not.
It’s thanks to former designers of Nina Ricci, Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh, the critically acclaimed menswear design duo, that they are a breath of fresh air.
The designers, who grew up in the Caribbean, love to celebrate all the things that people object to.
So here one imagines the recycled plastic found here as the hem on an apron-like dress or as the embellishment on a polo t-shirt motif. Vibrant colors evoke the seabed and matching headgear continues the theme.
Upcycling is also a big topic with strips of fabric used to fashion a rugby shirt.
SAINT LAURENT’S ART DECO
Antony Vaccarello explored the geometric universe of Art Deco on Tuesday night for a rare runway show that diverges from the channel founder’s designs – in favor of his interior décor.
Yves Saint Laurent, who died in 2008, is credited with contributing to the famous 1920s art movement that combined modern geometry with rich materials.
However, the designer never used multiple styles to inspire her fashion shows – instead, seen in the interior décor choices for her Paris mansion.
Here, Vaccarello fixed this.
The 40-year-old Belgian designer introduced Saint Laurent’s show with this form-rich style – seen on the runway in front of the glittering Eiffel Tower with its gold, silver and bronze bracelets, V-neck sharp or thick, angular shoulders that slope down.
Contrasts – such as the sheer paneling on a plain black dress that revealed nipples – create a sexy tension, as does the crisp yet soft tuxedo jacket (the fashion house’s signature) across the chest. bare.
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