As a young girl in India in the 1990s, I read a lot. If, like me, you were an avid reader as a child, you would fantasize about steaming mugs of hot cocoa, sparkling wine, toffee apples, and nut candies. Of course, the thought of gingerbread is something of a strange one. After all, the house of evil witches is made of gingerbread to attract innocent children like Hansel and Gretel.
They say that you should never lose the child in you. Well, a child is exactly who I am now, as I wander the famous German Weihnachtsmarkt or Christkindlemarkt, realizing my childhood dreams in a truly magical atmosphere where gingerbread cookies , buttered toasted chestnuts and vanilla-sweetened almonds are real. Intense aromas of cinnamon, anise and brandy lead me to the famous glühwein (German mulled wine) hut, where the signature large vases are bubbling. Funny, they remind me of the evil witch’s cooking pots in my comic books. Of course, for my German friends here, my diversion is fun!
Warmth in the cold
The word glühwein literally translates to ‘luminous wine’, referring to the red-hot iron used to heat wine in the Middle Ages. Red wine is heated in large pots with cinnamon, cloves and anise, combined with brandy or rum, oranges and other transforming elements. I learned that this stall is always the first stop when sipping on some warm glühwein to warm up the body to enjoy the rest of the market activity in the freezing temperatures. I love how the kids are treated equally here: the same stall serves kinderpunsch, a non-alcoholic condiment of berry and apple juice that makes my kids ask for more. Also, German hot chocolate with vanilla or cinnamon is equally appealing. One of my favorites is the spiked hot chocolate with a choice of rum, brandy or Baileys. Pure passion!
If you prefer something stronger, try the famous Feuerzangenbowle, an impressive drink in which smoky rum is poured over a large sugar crystal, then melted into red wine and blended. the flavors together.
The Yuletide season begins early in Germany—from November 21—when Advent begins. Every city, town, and village has a central Christmas market and several smaller ones. Each place usually has a unique theme, decor, and several kid attractions. The array of food on offer varies slightly based on regional specialties.
Rathausmarkt or town hall market in the center of Hamburg is a dreamy wonderland. Imagine you are walking down a cobblestone alley with warm twinkling lights. Small wooden huts dot the road, each of them beautifully decorated. You stop at a small hut selling local crafts before moving on to the next stall, where you buy hot roasted chestnuts, before stumbling across the gingerbread stand to name the cookies. Have a custom name for your child. As you walk, a band playing Christmas carols will sing to you. Just then, you look up and catch a glimpse of the town hall, with the magnificent Christmas tree lit up in front of you.
Land of passion
Behind the incredible displays of food, toys and crafts are cheerful-minded men and women in traditional costumes. To the Indian kid in me, they were like straight out of a Grimm brothers’ fairy tale. We ate some bratwurst (grilled sausage) on bread, topped with mustard and pickles. I also love the Swiss raclette, where a huge chunk of mature Swiss cheese is toasted and the melted top layer is scraped off on some crispy bread, with the toppings of your choice. What a delightful sensory experience! Of course, you can imagine the joy of supplementing with mulled wine in a place where the temperature is minus two!
These Christmas markets are also great places to shop for unique gifts, from handmade ceramics, toys and wooden puppets, to natural organic honey and preservatives, scented candles, and more. The symphony of excited kids (myself included) on a captivating music carousel adds to the vibrant buzz around. The highlight of this market is a visit from Santa’s ‘flying’ sleigh at the scheduled time—a fun little show performed with elaborate fanfare. The Christmas Parade every Saturday during the weeks of Advent is another spectacular display of the festive spirit. The floats are illuminated with Christmas characters from reindeer and angels to Santa and his elves dancing while those around are bathed in artificial snow.
What an enchanting atmosphere! Come here, I think you are also lost in the markets of beautiful Germany. Frohe Weihnachten! Merry Christmas!
Natasha Celmi is a chef and food writer. She is the author of the award-winning cookbook, Fast fresh taste. Her mantra is Smart Cooking: minimal effort, maximum flavor using fresh local produce.
From HT Brunch, December 24, 2022
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